Want to really get away from it all? If so, Agathonisi is the perfect place for you. Taking a ferry to Agathonisi is easy, just use Ferryscanner to compare companies and book ferry tickets. This tiny island of fewer than 200 residents is quietly tucked away next to some of Greece’s most popular tourist destinations, such as Rhodes and Kos. Completely undisturbed by any commercial footprint, Agathonisi sits to the north of the Dodecanese Islands and has retained its traditional character to this day, dotted by charming little white churches. There are remains of ancient fortifications dating back to the 4th century BC at Kastraki, where bronze and silver coins have been found, as well as clay honey pots. You can also check out the Byzantine stone vaulted buildings (Tholi) above Vathy Pigadi beach, which were probably used for food storage. Agathonisi is also a designated Natura 2000 protected site that serves as a refuge for rare birds and it boasts unspoiled landscapes, sheltered bays, picturesque settlements, and truly authentic hospitality. A popular target for marauding pirates through the ages, today it remains serene, tranquil, and perfect for a romantic getaway.
There are several ways to reach this idyllic island once you are in the area. You can book your ferry tickets with Ferryscanner and sail there from either Patmos (2 hours), Samos (1.20 hours), Rhodes (5 hours), Kalymnos (1.50 hours), Kos (2.30 hours), Leros (1 hour), Symi (4.15 hours) and Lipsi (30 minutes). Several local ferry lines operate throughout the year between the Dodecanese Islands, with ANE Kalymnou and Dodekanisos Seaways stopping off at Agathonisi on a regular basis.
You can get to any of the islands in the Dodecanese from the port of Piraeus in Athens, with the travel time depending on the itinerary. A conventional ferry such as Blue Star Ferries can take at least 8 hours while a high-speed catamaran will get you there a bit faster, taking into account how many stops it will make along the way. Ferries from Piraeus to Agathonisi run all year round on a daily basis, although in summer there are far more departures to choose from.
If you are arriving at Athens International Airport, you can take a 55-minute connecting flight from there to the island of Samos and then jump on a ferry to Agathonisi for a one-hour ride. Make sure to plan your trip in advance by booking tickets with Ferryscanner as the ferry crossings are not made every day.
Agios Georgios (Saint George in English) is the island’s only harbor and can hardly be detected from the sea. When approaching the sheltered cove, you will find a smattering of small traditional dwellings, a few hotels, and a couple of restaurants. The port may serve the coming and going of ferry lines, but visitors soon discover that there isn’t much else going on there and can enjoy peace and quiet from the moment they disembark.
There is a wide pier facing south that protects the moored boats from the north winds, and a small sandy beach, which is perfect for swimming. A walk up to the church of Agios Georgios overlooking the port offers wonderful panoramic views. On Ferryscanner you can easily compare prices or ferry companies and book cheap ferry tickets to Agathonisi.
There are only two main villages on this idyllic island apart from the port, both of which are no more than one hundred meters apart. The rocky terrain of Agathonisi has meant that the settlements are huddled together and were built in such a way as not to be visible to oncoming pirate ships. What was once a busy little fishing village still stands on the northeast side of the island.
Although classified as the ‘largest’ village, in fact, Megalo Chorio only has about 100 inhabitants. Mostly they’re elderly people who reside in small houses built with thatched roofs and red walls. It is the oldest settlement on the island and life there seems to have stood still for years, with just a small bakery and mini-market catering to residents, as well as a health center and school.
Further down the hill, Mikro Chorio has less than 20 residents and is really an extension of the larger village. It continues to ooze a rustic charm with its stone walls surrounding the houses and their large entranceways circling the central square. The little church of Agios Panteleimonas stands overlooking the village on a small hill and offers lovely views of the area.
The remains of what was once a little fishing village, Katholiki is almost abandoned now but visitors will enjoy its waterfront location, with the pretty line-up of traditional wooden fishing boats. A working fish farming facility between the harbor and the adjacent islet of Nero/Nera is actually the island’s sole business today and it exports about 500 tons of fish each year.
Agathonisi boasts several sheltered beaches that are reachable by foot or by sea. Each one offers a little piece of paradise where you can bathe in crystal clear waters and soak up the island’s tranquil vibes. There are no organized beaches on the island, so make sure to take water and snacks with you before you set off -and wear sturdy walking shoes.
A beautiful pearl, Spilia (or Cave) is easily accessible from the port of Agios Georgios, just 500 meters along the coastal road. Fortunately, it’s illuminated by solar-powered lamps in the evening. A lovely beach with fine sand, small pebbles, and natural shade, the water of Spilia is like an emerald swimming pool and the cave at its southwestern end is an enchanting feature.
Said to be the island’s most beautiful beach, Gaidouravlakos is just on the other side of the hill from Spilia beach, but a bit more difficult to reach. The easiest way to get there is by boat from the port. But if you can handle it, you can also climb the hill and descend down the steep slope, which will take around 20-25 minutes. It is worth going, either way, to bask in its unbelievable turquoise waters.
Vathy Pigadi is one of the most picturesque beaches in Agathonisi and it lies on the southeastern side of the island. Taking the road that continues from Metamorfosis tou Sotiros (the church of the Transfiguration of the Savior), the beach can be found by following a dirt track through a goat paddock. Named after a large water well that’s located there, this charming pebbled beach is part of an idyllic landscape that makes for an unforgettable visit.
Another beautiful little haven in the southeastern part of the island, Poros Beach can be found by following the dirt road after the church of Agios Nikolaos (Saint Nicholas) and Vathy Pigadi Beach. It is sandy with very shallow pale blue water in a tiny bay and as you enjoy your swim, you will spot a large alcove or open cave in the rock face.
A delightful pebbled beach, Tsangari beach can be found by leaving Megalo Chorio and passing the little churches of Agios Ioannis Prodromos (Saint John the Baptist) and Agia Eirini (Saint Irene) Chrysovalantou. A 300-meter path leads to the beach, where you can spot sea urchins cleaning the crystalline waters.
There are two hard-to-reach beaches on the southeast side of Megalo Chorio, with no marked footpaths. You can reach them by starting at the point where the road from Megalo Chorio ends and heading east for about 300 meters until you get to Mikro Ammoudaki, which means ‘Little Sandy Beach’. Then Megalo Ammoudaki, or ‘Big Sandy Beach’ is another 300 meters beyond that and is worth the walk if you seek total seclusion.
On such a tiny island, there is no need for public transport. You can reach any of your desired destinations by walking, so just make sure to bring comfortable sturdy footwear. You can also jump on a small boat at the harbor and reach one of the beautiful remote beaches by sea for a small amount of money.