Tilos is a small Greek island that may be unknown to you, even though it sits between the famous islands of Kos and Rhodes in the Dodecanese group. With the uninhabited offshore islets of Antitilos and Gaidaros, it has a total land area of 24.913 sq miles and a population of 780 inhabitants. If you enjoy hiking and getting back in touch with nature, then Tilos will not disappoint as it offers 54 kilometers of walking trails and wonderful scenery. With only a few villages, life on Tilos moves at a slow pace, yet you will find all of the essential tourist amenities like restaurants, shops, and cafés. Points of interest include the medieval castle built by the Knights of the Order of Saint John in Megalo Chorio, which offers spectacular views across the bay of Agios Antonios. You can also visit the archaeological & paleontological collections at the island’s museum.
The island takes its name from Tilos, son of the god Helios. Mythology has it that he used to gather wild therapeutic plants on the island and he later became a priest and built a temple there. While on the island, you will learn about excavations that unearthed skeletons of the pygmy elephants dating back to 4,500 BCE. During the Classical era, the island had its own currency and was famous for its fine-spun cloth and perfumes. Traces of past civilizations can still be found on Tilos, such as Byzantine monuments, medieval castles, churches, and the important 14th-century monastery of St. Panteleimon.
Getting to Tilos is easy when you book your ferry tickets with Ferryscanner and there are connections throughout the week from the port of Piraeus with Blue Star Ferries. The crossing takes about 14 hours and you can arrange for a cabin if you are traveling overnight. You can also book your ferry tickets to Tilos and sail from Rhodes with Dodekanisos Seaways and arrive there in 2 hours. If you wish to sail to Tilos from other destinations in Greece, book your ferry tickets and depart from Astypalaia (6.50 hrs), Chalki (1.30 hrs), Kalymnos (4 hrs), Kastelorizo (7.20 hrs), Leros (5.25), and Kos in 2 hours, 45 minutes. Ferries depart from Patmos too, for a 6.45-hour journey, as well as from other islands such as Symi (1.30) and Nisyros (1.15 hrs) with SAOS Ferries.
Tilos doesn’t have an airport but you can fly to Rhodes International Airport ‘Diagoras’ from Athens, Thessaloniki and other locations in Europe. Alternatively, fly to Kos International Airport ‘Hippocrates’ which also serves flights from Athens, Thessaloniki, Rhodes, Heraklion, and some European countries. Upon arrival at either airport, you can then make your way to the harbor and sail to Tilos, after booking your ferry tickets with Ferryscanner.
Tilos has only one port, Livadia, which serves all of the inbound and outbound ferries for the island. It is a beautiful harbor that offers safe anchoring services for small boats and yachts. Facing eastward, the island of Symi can be seen in the distance while the castle of Agriosykia sits on the rocky mountain top overlooking Livadia. The elaborately sculpted architecture of the Tilos Police Station building at the port is a nod to the Italian domination of the island from 1912 until 1948.
Tilos has only 3 main villages, one of which is completely abandoned but that still provides interest to the visitor due to its idyllic location and unique ambiance.
Megalo Chorio can be found 7 km northwest of the main port of Tilos and is the island’s capital. It is a beautiful town that has retained its traditional character despite its small size. The tiny population continues to reside in the picturesque stone houses sitting on the hillside and is still involved with agriculture and farming. You can walk up to the 15th-century castle built by the Knights of Saint John to enjoy the superb views across to the neighboring island of Nisyros, and check out the ruins of the church of Saint Taxiarches. Don’t miss the chance to visit the Charkadio Cave 2 km south of Megalo Chorio, which was discovered in 1971 by the geologist and speleologist Nikolaos Simeonides. Findings from the cave include Neolithic hunting tools, pieces of pottery, as well as animal fossils from turtles, deer, and the incredible dwarf elephants. You can see the exhibits in the new museum at the site.
Livadia is a lovely place to begin your stay on Tilos and its authentic atmosphere sets the tone for the days ahead. Well-looked after churches demonstrate the strong religious devotion of the locals, including the church of Agios Nikolaos that you will see at the front of the port. A walk around the harbor will reveal plenty of rooms for rent, taverns, and a few cafés overlooking the beach while along the coast road you will find the medieval port of Agios Stefanos with its iconic lighthouse.
Mikro Chorio was established in the 15th century in the hills above Livadia and gradually abandoned after World War II when its residents moved down the mountain to build a new life. Today, you can still walk around the ruins of old stone houses and check out the lovely whitewashed church that dominates the village overlooking the sea below. A castle built at the top of the village is still visible and amongst the ruined streets you will find a small bar that only operates during summer.
The beaches on Tilos have a unique beauty to them and are perfect for moments of serene relaxation. Apart from Livadia, which is organized with umbrellas and sunbeds, the other beaches remain in their natural state and many are popular with nudists. You can get to them on foot, with the local bus from Livadia, or via small boats that can drop you off for a few hours of total serenity.
Eristos Beach is only 3 km south of Megalo Chorio and is easily accessed, although it remains tranquil and isolated. Its crystalline waters make it worth a visit and it is quite a long beach at 1.5 km. There is some natural shade provided by trees and you can enjoy a coffee or a snack provided by a mobile canteen in the summer months.
This beach is one of the longest in Tilos and also very clean, with a shoreline of pebbles and sand. You will see the ruins of an ancient monastery in the distance and can stop off at the fishing village of the same name after your swim. The small harbor settlement has a wonderful view of the islands of Nisyros and Kos and is famous for its graphic location.
Plaka Beach sits in a wonderful bay and has a long shoreline of pebbles and sand. A lot of trees provide shade, making it popular with free campers, and it is also home to wild peacocks that are curious to see what you are up to. There is a large wind turbine at the far end of the beach, which is part of an initiative to make Tilos self-sufficient in energy production.
This is the main beach of Tilos, just next to the port, and is ideal for families with children. It is over a kilometer in length with wonderfully warm water and small pebbles and there are some sunbeds & umbrellas for rent, as well as changing rooms and showers. The beach’s location next to the village means that food and drink are at your fingertips in the welcoming taverns and coffee shops.
Tilos is such a small island that transportation isn’t really needed but you can take the local bus if you wish to hop from one village to another. There are a couple of taxis and you can also hire a car or motorbike from Livadia but the real beauty of the island is best discovered while walking along one of its well laid out hiking trails.