IthacaIonian Islands · Greece

All About Ithaca

To the west of Mainland Greece and east of Kefalonia is Odysseus’s home, Ithaca. Popularly known as Ithaki, this island steeped in mythology has an effervescent personality thanks to its colorful villages, rugged shoreline, lush vegetation, and friendly residents. Taking a ferry to Ithaca is easy, just use Ferryscanner to compare ferry companies and book ferry tickets.

Inhabited for centuries, Ithaca was ruled by several dynasties, from the Romans and the Byzantine Empire to the Normans, French and British. The island finally became a part of Greece in 1864, but then a calamitous earthquake destroyed most of Ithaca in 1953. The 118 square kilometers island with a population of 3300 might not have many buildings older than 70 years, but its soul is very much immersed in its ancient past. Although a perfect day trip from Kefalonia, spend a few days in Ithaca and let it bewitch you beyond your wildest expectations.
 

Routes and Ferries to Ithaca

Ferryscanner can help you book ferry tickets to Ithaca from multiple destinations. Ionian Pelagos operates the vessels from Patras that take anywhere from 3 to 4 hours to complete the journey. Levante Ferries has boats sailing between Killini and Ithaca. There is also a daily ferry from Astakos that takes 3 hours and 15 minutes to reach Ithaca.

Travelers have two possible options when planning on flying to Ithaca. You can land at Kefalonia Airport and then take a 30-minute ferry from the Port of Sami to Ithaca. Flights to Kefalonia, though, are seasonal. For year-round connections, start from Athens. The capital’s airport has several direct flights to and from European and Asian cities. From the airport, get a taxi or a bus ride to Patras, followed by an onward ferry connection to Ithaca. If intending on renting a car, it is best to lease one on the island, rather than in Athens.
 

Ports of Ithaca

There are five harbors in Ithaca. Local fishers and sailing enthusiasts use Kioni and Polis to dock their smaller boats. Similarly, Frikes primarily caters to personal vessels but does have a few ferry connections with the other Ionian Islands during the summer season. The harbor in the narrow bay of Vathy is a safe place to anchor your yachts. The Port in Vathy is a favorite stop of cruise boats from Kefalonia.

The main ferry port of Ithaca is Pissaetos. Situated 8km from Vathy, it faces Kefalonia on the western side of the island. The port itself is very modest, with limited services and virtually no amenities. If you’ve purchased passenger-only ferry tickets to Ithaca, book a taxi in advance as there is no other transport option available to the center of Vathy.
 

Capital & Villages

Ithaca has nine main villages, of which Anogi is often considered the oldest, and Exogi is the last settlement in the north of the island. Those looking for an offbeat stay can book a room among the greenery of Platrithias or a villa in Lefki, a village near the western shore.

Then again, irrespective of where you wander off in Ithaca, you’ll come across warm-hearted and inviting locals who are forever ready to share the spoils of their island with visiting guests.

Vathy

More than half the population of Ithaca lives in or around its capital Vathy. A busy town with all possible facilities, it lies in a sheltered bay just off the Molos Gulf. Vathy is the best place in Ithaca to book a hotel.

The village has an active night scene and several restaurants such as Zen and To Steki that serve delicious Greek food. To keep its old-world charm intact, new constructions in Vathy must resemble the village’s older buildings. Places of interest in the capital include the Samos Wine Museum and the Church of Agios Spyridonas, built in 1909.

Furthermore, take a moment to step inside the Archaeological Museum, situated near the Town Hall. The museum has on display various statues and artifacts from Heraion, as well as a 5.25m tall sculpture of Kurous.

Perachori

Perachori is a hilly village just south of Vathy. It is the largest and one of the oldest settlements on the island. Plan a half-day visit here to walk around the vineyards, medieval ruins and admire breathtaking views of Vathy and the Ionian Sea from Agnantio.

With several churches dotted around, there is much to see in the village that additionally has excellent dining options. On the last Saturday of July, the residents of Perachori host a festival offering visitors a taste of their locally produced wine.

Frikes

Like a ray of sunshine, Frikes will warm the cockles of your heart with its pictorial setting. Located on the northeast coast of Ithaca, 19km from Vathy, Frikes is primarily a fishing village with around 100 permanent residents.

During summers, movement increases as tourists arrive to photograph its traditional windmills, enjoy the beach, indulge in the local culinary scene, or take boats to Kefalonia and Lefkada. Frikes is also a popular stop during a full-day island boat tour.

Kioni

A short distance from Frikes, also on the north-eastern coast, is the village of Kioni. Consisting of a lively harbor and light-colored houses scattered across the hills, Kioni is well-known for its beach and three traditional windmills.

If on the island on July 20th, head to Kioni Beach for the Feast of Agios Elias, which is a massive celebration comprised of music, dance, food, and wine.

Stavros

Stavros is an archaeologically significant village with an endearing aura, located 16km north of Vathy. In the central square of Stavros, you’ll find a bust of Odysseus and a tiny glass-enclosed sculpture of the Odysseus Palace. Furthermore, numerous tavernas near the courtyard entice visitors with tasty homemade preparations.

Besides having direct access to the Bay of Polis, Stavros is where you’ll find the Church of the Savior. On August 5th and 6th of every year, the locals celebrate the Feast of Saviour in the village center. The festivities in which tourists can participate involve live music, dancing, and other community-based activities.
 

Best Beaches

When it comes to enjoying the beaches in Ithaca, tourists here can have the best of both worlds. Several coves bordered by trees and plants provide secluded seaside escapes for couples. At the same time, families can head to larger beaches with plentiful amenities where kids can run around freely and play in the shallow water.

Gidaki Beach

This white pebble beach is located on the eastern coast of the island, roughly 5km from Vathy. Due to its isolated nature, Gidaki is accessible either by boat or a 20-minute hike through the wilderness. As a result, it is one of the few shorelines that remains uncrowded even during summers.

A beach shack operates sporadically on the thin strip that overlooks the enchanting turquoise-colored sea. When open, you can pick up snacks, drinks, and even rent umbrellas. However, it is best to go prepared and carry your own bag of beachside necessities.

Dexa Beach

Only 2km from Vathy, tucked inside a bay, is the Blue Flag accredited Dexa Beach. Sunseekers can rent loungers for €10 over here. Those preferring to stay in the shade typically lie under the intermittently growing olive trees.

A clean and safe pebble beach for kids with a café, showers, and WCs, Dexa isn’t too broad but lengthy enough to accommodate several beach-goers. Mythology enthusiasts will find it interesting to know that Dexa is where Odysseus landed after the Trojan War.

Afales Beach

Some of the most dramatically impressive beaches in Ithaca are along its hilly northern coast. To reach Aflaes in a straightforward manner, take a boat. You can, nevertheless, drive there in about 30 minutes from Vathy.

The drive involves riding a dirt road from Platreithia followed by a hike down steep steps to the beach. A small pebble cove with a white cliff background, Afales has a hint of white sand near the greenish water. There aren’t any facilities here, so don’t forget your umbrellas, drinks, and food.

Polis Beach

Polis Beach lies 18km to the north from Vathy, facing Kefalonia, in the Bay of Polis. The small pebble beach is great for families as its calm crystalline water allows children to spot schools of fish without having to snorkel.

Showers, toilets, parasol rentals for €6, canoe hire, and a canteen make it easier to spend an entire day on the beach. Tourists wanting to discover more can walk to the nearby marina or the Cave of Loizos, a site known for its archaeological findings.

Loutsa Beach

A compact pebble and grassy shore, Loutsa is a well-maintained beach, ideal for children who can wave at passengers with ferry tickets to Ithaca as they sail past the coast at regular intervals.

This sheltered and shallow beach is a 20-minute walk from Vathy, with a good road connection as well. The water is as clear as anywhere else on the island, and one can rent chairs and umbrellas here in the summers.
 

Transportation Around Ithaca

It’s a brilliant idea to bring your car to Ithaca as the roads are well laid out. The few dirt roads on the island usually lead to secluded beaches, worth exploring if staying in Ithaca for more than a few days.

The bus service on the island covers all the northern villages starting from Vathy. While cheap and comfortable, it runs on a limited schedule. On the other hand, taxis are conveniently available around the clock. You can even book one for a full-day island tour. Upon arriving with ferry tickets to Ithaca, taxis are the only way to travel from Pissaetos to the villages. Sea taxis are slightly expensive but a quicker transportation option from Vathy to Kioni or Sami in Kefalonia.

To fully appreciate the island and its hidden treasures, book a boat tour that stops at several fishing villages and hard-to-reach beaches. If you prefer to have complete control over your schedule, rent a car or bicycle from one of the agencies in Vathy.