All About Paxi
Paxos, along with Antipaxos and the islets of Panagia and Agios Nikolas, form a mini archipelago in the Ionian Sea. Steeped in mythology, it is believed that Poseidon struck Corfu with his trident to create Paxi, a land where he could be alone with Amphitrite. Ruled by the Phoenicians, Romans, the Byzantine Empire, and the Venetians over centuries, Paxi went from the French to the British during the first decade of the 1800s. Of all its past inhabitants, the Venetians left the most significant mark on the island, seen through its local churches and olive presses. It was also during their control that Paxi suffered continuous attacks by pirates. Nowadays, the island is especially popular with Italian holidaymakers. Paxi finally became a part of Greece in 1864. Taking a ferry to Paxi is easy, just use Ferryscanner to compare ferry companies and book ferry tickets.
This 10km long island to the southeast of Corfu covers an area of 19 square kilometers. Paxi has a population of roughly 2000, with most locals living in the capital city of Gaios. The island spent decades in the shadow of Corfu’s popularity but is now becoming a preferred destination for enthusiastic travelers who want to step away from tourist-heavy beaches yet enjoy a playful and energetic island atmosphere.
Routes and Ferries to Paxi
You can purchase ferry tickets to Paxi through Ferryscanner for boats sailing from Brindisi in Italy and Igoumenitsa in Mainland Greece. The journey from Italy takes 14 hours. European Ferries operate the once-a-week vessel from Greece that takes roughly 2 hours and 15 minutes to reach Gaios.
Paxi has no airport, so the closest place you can fly to is Corfu. Although well-connected with European cities, many trans-continental travelers first arrive in Athens and then take a transfer flight. A 45-minute hydrofoil further links Corfu with Paxi. Several rental villas in Paxi offer pick-up services from Corfu Airport for their guests.
Ports of Paxi
Three harbors cater to all the boat traffic in Paxi. The marinas of Longos on the east coast and Lakka in the north accommodate fishing boats and smaller leisure vessels. Gaios is the primary port of Paxi, welcoming bigger yachts and ferries. Sheltered by two islets, the port provides a haven for casual boaters to arrive, depart, and dock next to the capital city. Extremely busy from July to September, the port area is alive with activity thanks to several waterfront restaurants and bars tempting tourists with delicious preparations.
The one thing holders of ferry tickets to Paxi do not have to worry about is mooring. Since several port sections are reserved for tripper boats during the day, yacht owners often find it challenging to find a berth when it’s peak tourist season. In such cases, they usually park their crafts around the islet of Agios Nikolas.
Best Beaches
Inherently cozy, beaches in Paxi are usually small and consist of both pebble and sandy strands. Found primarily along the eastern coast, they entice sunbathers with picturesque surroundings and the opportunity to splash around in the glorious waters of the Ionian Sea. Although mostly accessible by road, do consider spending a day at beaches in Paxi and Antipaxos that are only reachable by boat.
Plakes Beach
A southward 10-minute stroll along the coast from Gaios will lead you to the tiny Plakes Beach. A secluded section of the shoreline, this pebble beach remains uncrowded even during the summers. The water is refreshingly clear and shallow enough for kids to play without fear. Remember to take your water shoes and snorkeling equipment if planning to go into the sea.
Mesovrika Beach
An obligatory excursion from Paxi is a boat trip to Antipaxos beaches. The northeastern coast of this sister-island has two prominent sandy strands, Voutoumi and Vrika. Full of amenities, they are super popular and thus crowded on most days. If you don’t mind stepping on a shingles beach, try the more offbeat option of Mesovrika. A stunningly wild seaside with no amenities, it interests fewer tourists. However, its snug location between cliffs and vibrantly blue water are reasons enough to forgo typical beach luxuries. Just don’t forget your snorkel gear, and bring along umbrellas, drinking water, and snacks.
Mongonissi Beach
It’ll take you 10 minutes from Gaios to cover the 4km distance to Mongonissi Beach. Ideal for families, the sandy shore slopes gently into the sea here. While not the clearest, the water is swimmable, calm, and safe due to the beach’s protected nature. Next to the shore is a tavern, toilets, and the option to rent sunbeds, kayaks, and paddle boats at competitive prices. Moreover, up to 50 boats can moor for free by the beach.
Paralia Lakka
Locally known as Harami Beach, the 8km drive from Gaios to the northern coast doesn’t take much time. Situated next to the sheltered Lakka harbor, there are actually two beaches here, Paralia and Kanoni Strand. While both are perfect for a swim, the former is a pebble beach with a sandy seabed. Olive trees on the shore provide much-needed shade, whereas the beach shack caters to your food and drink requirements. Sunbed rental is cheap at Paralia, costing €4 a day.
Marmari Beach
A hop away from the harbor village of Longos, the drive to Marmari Beach takes 15-minutes on a scooter. The beach with hypnotic deep green water is secluded with facilities a short walk away. The white pebbles on the shore are easy to walk on, and the olive trees act as protectors against the afternoon sun. Although child-friendly, Marmari is a favorite with beachgoers wanting to go topless.
Places to Visit
Paxi promises a mix of eccentric, natural, human-made, and artistic attractions that highlight the island’s ever-growing appeal. From August until September, the village of Longos plays host to the famous Paxi Music Festival. Also, during summer, children have a whale of a time riding the Nemo Red Submarine. Year-round travelers need not fear, for there are many places to visit in Paxi, be it cold or warm.
Tripitos Arch
The Arch of Tripitos is a natural wonder formed by the collapse of a sea cave. The 20-meter rock formation connects to the island via a small ‘bridge’. Adventure lovers can carefully cross the rock bridge to the center of Tripitos Arch. To reach this must-visit place in Paxi, you’ll first need to drive 3km southwest from Gaios on a dirt road. After parking, a 10-minute hike will bring you to this majestic spot. Alternatively, the rock is equally impressive to view from a boat.
Blue Caves
The otherwise unreachable western coastline of Paxi is a delight to observe through a boat tour. Large and small vessels take eager travelers on trips throughout the day, stopping at various caves and natural formations. The most arresting of the bunch is the Blue Caves, hidden in a bay towards the center of the west shoreline. Once a hideout for pirates, this humungous cavern is an awe-inspiring sight. Boats usually sail through the grotto, allowing their passenger to take a swim in the bluest of waters. To avoid the rush, always take the early morning boats to the Blue Caves.
Agios Nikolas Fortress
Passengers with ferry tickets to Paxi, while docking at the port, often notice that the islet of Agios Nikolas opposite the terminal acts as a natural protection for the harbor. On this islet, Venetian Adam II San Ippolito built a fortress between 1423-1510, intending to protect Paxi from pirates. Tourists can take a boat to Agios Nikolas and walk through the remains of the castle. In ruins but still standing are walls, a watchtower, barracks, reservoir, and the fort’s cannons.
Paxos Museum
Housed in an early 1900s primary school building, Paxos Museum highlights what life was on the island during the early 20th-century. Situated in Gaios, near the port, the museum displays various artifacts in open and covered spaces. Among the relics are limestone sinks, fossils, olive presses, pottery from the Venetian period, artisanal tools, a 17th-century bed, and multiple household items. Started in 1996, the museum typically stays open from May to October.
Genesis Restaurant
With no shortage of good restaurants in Paxi, choosing the best can get confusing. Genesis, located opposite the green statue of Georgios Anemogiannis in Gaios harbor, is a beloved eatery of the island. Specializing in traditional Greek cuisine, Genesis plates up delectable preparations, ranging from lamb kleftiko and seafood spaghetti to moussaka, grilled octopus, and sea bass. The restaurant has Greek dancing on special nights, creating a lively ambiance that diners don’t easily forget. Busy during the summer season, call ahead (+30 2662 032495) and reserve your table to avoid waiting.
Transportation Around Paxi
Tourists have plenty of on-land and water transportation choices to get around Paxi. The island’s bus service runs from 10:30 am till 11:30 pm. It covers all the three main villages of Gaios, Longos, and Lakka while also stopping in Fontana and Magazia. The bus ticket from Gaios to Lakka costs €3 whereas Longos to Lakka costs only €1.80.
If arriving with ferry tickets to Paxi without a vehicle, be sure to rent a car or scooter. It will allow you to explore the island at your convenience. Due to Paxi’s small size, you can always walk from one village to another, or head out to discover some of the more scenic trails. When planning to walk in the open, leave early or wait till the evening, as the afternoon sun can be pretty harsh.
With only five to seven taxis on the entire island, you need to book one well in advance or be ready to wait. The drivers are friendly and operate 24 hours a day. Taxis are not too expensive when traveling in a group.
If you haven’t had enough of sailing even after utilizing your ferry tickets to Paxi, then indulge in a motorboat hire. You can rent a boat under 30HP from the port without a license. The jagged western coast of Paxi, with its Ipapanti cave and Ortholithos Rock, demands at least one visit. Accessible only by sea, it’s best to book a tour as the sea can get choppy quickly in this region. For a trip to Antipaxos, situated 15 minutes away, book a pre-arranged or private boat trip that stops at the island’s three main beaches.
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